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HINTS ON FINISHING OF THE USABLE SURFACE

BASIC QUESTIONS

In the wood of numerous exotic sorts oleiferous substances - and other chemical compounds - can be found, which - in contacting a surface lacquer /oil - can evoke undesirable reactions, or drastically influence on the colour of the wood. As moreover, ecological requirements make the surface- chemistry manufacturers eliminate some ingredients of lacquer and replace them with new ones, which could disadvantageously affect particular sorts of wood. In order to avoid such undesirable reactions, before starting the lacquering / oiling process YOU SHALL HAVE THE LACQUER / OIL TESTED on the floor prepared to be finished.

CHOICE OF TOP-SURFACE CHEMISTRY

OIL SYSTEMS, WITH OR WITHOUT WAX
This system of protection is mainly recommended for public-use objects such as schools, offices, shops. The reason is ability of quick renovation/ maintenance of the floor. Most of exotic wood sorts are very hard, and that is why there is no need to strengthen hardness of their usable surface with lacquer. With floors in rooms of high-intensity passing-by, characterized by dark paint, all scratches on the lacquered surface leave lighter traces. With oiled floors, local scratches can be removed with suitable maintenance agents. Additionally, the wood protected with oil, fully exposes its aesthetical values and also colour and graining.

LACQUER SYSTEMS
Lacquer systems are still the most popular way of surface finishing in dwelling rooms. While using lacquers, you should remember about their influence on the wood trans-colouring.

1. WATER-BASE LACQUERS
- do not darken the wood
- hinder from the darkening process
- as flexible lacquers, they reduce wood drying-up results

2. POLYURETHANE LACQUERS
- darken the wood

PROBLEMATIC SORTS OF WOOD

- lapacho/ipe - basic compounds in the wood - change of colour to be red.
- doussie - silicon compounds (white blooms) - lacquer cannot adhere.
- jatoba - silicon compounds, invisible with the unaided eye, lighter stains after lacquering.
- teak - oleiferous compounds - make lacquering problematic.


DESTINATION OF TERRACE FLOORS - ASSEMBLING MANUAL

Wood humidity of terrace boards varies within 25 - 30% and, this being so, is destined to outsider applications. To assemble them inside of the buildings requires former drying of the wood down to 9-10% humidity level.

In case of a waking passages to be built from terrace boards (sidewalks or stairs in public locations) we recommend to lay them with the deep-riffled side upwards, in order to provide a sidle-preventive surface. The substrate for assembling of the board shall be stable, hard and leveled. If assembling on the ground is involved, an under layer of sand-and-gravel mixture is necessary, on black fabric to prevent from overgrowing of weeds.

If the bottom structure is to rest on concrete blocks or pads, you have to lay them in spaces adequate to configuration of square timbers.

In the rainy weather, the substrate can be stained by tannin compounds in bangkirai wood. In order to avoid this, cement under layers shall be covered by a polyurethane -base coat.

The hard wood slide-protection board Deshall be assembled on joists of specific gravity close to that of the board material. Recommended are sorts of specific gravity exceeding 850 kg/cu. m. Assembling to pine wood, chipboards or to other low-density material is not recommended.

The space between boards shall not exceed 5-10mm. You should consider natural process of wood drying on hot summer days, and of swelling in rainy weather conditions.

In order to fasten terrace boards, you shall employ stailnless-steel or brass 5x 60 bolts. Normal-steel bolts can cause staining of the wood and accelerated corrosion of the steel. Thinner bolts could make them - in extreme cases - cut off at the contact area to the joist.

Bolts or screws shall not be fastened farther than 50-70 mm from the edge of the board for fear lest the ends be flexed. Lengths of bolts shall be equal to double thickness of the board to be assembled.

Assembly on the non-absorbable substrate should make it possible for the water to flow away from between joists.

Insulating pads need to be used under joists, made of non- absorbable materials (e.g. rubber) so as to protect the wood from water soaking from underneath.

After assembling, the boards are to be protected using an oil or an lacquer for outside terraces. We recommend OSMO oils.

Storing: wood pieces have to be stored in stacks and tied together with bands or ballasted. The boards must not be laid in bulk for fear of the natural aptitude of wood to be warped.